Time-Saving Shortcuts
Got a weekend project? Borrow a few of these hard-earned tips the pros have been using for years, and you'll be on the water in no time.
by Chris Caswell
June 1, 2002
If you've ever watched professional boat riggers at work, you know how quickly and effortlessly
they seem to handle most projects. While you're still figuring out which drill bit to use, they've
already installed the piece of gear and are cleaning up afterwards. You might expect the pros have
a trade secret for drilling holes faster or bolting down fittings more rapidly. But that's not the
reason they're so efficient. They've simply found ways to save time (and energy) by simplifying
their projects with hard-earned tips they've accumulated over years of trial and error. The good
news is, you can benefit from their rigging tricks. Best of all, many of these not only get the job
done faster, but better. Let's take a look at 25 rigging tips from the pros.
Electrical
1. Always use one size larger wire than required, since corrosion will eventually reduce the
current flow.
2. When you're pulling new wiring through another bundle of wiring or a rubber bulkhead
grommet, wipe the new wire first with some liquid soap to reduce friction, and the new wire will
slide through more easily.
3. When installing a piece of gear, always leave enough extra wire to work on the item in the
future. For example, when wiring a bait tank pump, leave enough wire to move the pump to a place
where you have full access to it.
4. Use PVC plastic tubing as wire runs, and use a large enough size to handle additional
wires for future equipment.
5. To seal wire connections, avoid using electrical tape, which can become a gummy mess.
Heat-shrunk tubing makes a strong, watertight seal, while liquid electrical tape is equally
watertight but not as tough.
6. Label all wires both at the electrical panel and the equipment end, and anywhere in
between where there's a junction or potential for an open circuit.
7. If possible, always color-code wiring to American Boat and Yacht Council standards. If you
don't want to buy short pieces of different-colored wire, use colored electrical tape at each end
to color code the circuits.
8. Need to run wire inside the overhead liner of a fiberglass boat? Drill a small hole, put a
sewing machine needle with thread through the hole and then use a magnet to 'stroke' the needle to
where you can reach it. With each stroke, more thread should disappear into the hole. If you hit an
obstruction, stroke around it. You can then use the thread to pull a stronger piece of nylon cord,
which is used to run the wiring.
9. Always use nylon or rubber grommets to help protect wires where they pass through
bulkheads.
Plumbing
10. When cutting PVC pipe or rubber tubing, put a hose clamp on first ' it serves as a
straight cutting edge, and you won't get angled cuts that can leak.
11. Use smooth tubing. It takes more energy to move water through ribbed flex hose, resulting
in reduced water flow.
12. Flexible rubber and plastic tubing can be time-consuming to snake. A better way is to
first snake a piece of stiff wire through. Then slip the hose onto the wire and carefully
push it through, removing the wire only after the hose is securely in place.
13. When sliding plastic tubing onto a barbed fitting that seems too big, save time by
heating the tubing. Dip the end of the tubing in hot water and then push it onto the fitting, but
don't forget to put the hose clamps on first!
Mechanical
14. Before working on your boat's engine, put some lotion or petroleum jelly on your hands
and the grease will come off easily afterwards.
15. When replacing engine belts, wire an extra belt on the inside. If the inner belt breaks,
you can replace it without removing the outer belt.
16. When installing a system, assemble all the pieces you can, and then put the entire system
in place, rather than struggling in an awkward position to fit each piece. On a bilge pump, attach
the tubing and connect the wiring before bolting the pump down. Check that everything is
accessible, such as hose clamps on the inaccessible side of the hoses.
17. Need to work around a hot engine or generator? Take a pair of old wool socks and cut out
the toes. Slide the resulting tube onto your forearms and you'll never have welts again.
18. To neatly cut a plastic dashboard to install electronics or gauges, remove the tip from a
Weller soldering iron and replace it with an X-acto knife blade, which has the same threads. Heated
up, the knife will cut the plastic like butter.
19. Use a nutdriver to tighten hose clamps. A flexible shaft lets you get into tight spaces,
holds better than a screwdriver, and nixes the risk of slipping off and nicking the hose.
Topsides/Brightwork
20. Getting silicone sealant into a tight space can be a messy proposition if you can't get
the sealant gun close enough to the target. Take a piece of 3/8-inch tubing and slide it onto the
tip of the silicone cartridge, holding the tubing in place with a mini-hose clamp. You'll be able
to squirt the sealant more accurately into cramped spaces.
21. When replacing a screw in an existing hole, use a larger screw instead. If you do have to
use the same screw you used originally, put a toothpick or two into the hole first to ensure a good
bite.
22. When choosing varnish, look for one with a high UV resistance (usually high-gloss) for
long-lasting protection.
23. If you're using spray paint to finish a job or touch up gear, put a light coat of
Vaseline any place you don't want the paint to adhere. Afterward, just wipe or hose it off.
24. When using silicone sealant, be sure to push, not pull, the sealant cartridge tip along
the gap. Mask both sides first, and finish by smoothing the goo with a wet finger.
25. If you mist silicone sealant with water, it'll skin over quickly so that shavings and
dirt won't mar the joint before it dries.