Install an Outrigger

Get some help reeling in the big ones by installing an outrigger or downrigger.

by Gary P. Joyce

November 1, 2005

Down and out, huh? Well, rather than describing some level of socioeconomic success or failure, this is about fishing. And if you plan on catching big fish, you're going to have to go in either of the aforementioned directions; i.e. down or out. Which direction ' and which equipment used ' is generally determined by several factors, but always by at least two: what fish you're after and what water you're fishing.

For example, with saltwater and big-game fish you should use outriggers. In big freshwater lakes where you need to be down at the thermocline, use downriggers. You may see downriggers on saltwater boats, but rarely will you see outriggers on freshwater boats. Those are, of course, generalities.
Regardless, installing either setup isn't all that difficult if you've got a little skill with a drill and some basic ratchets, wrenches, screwdrivers ' and in case you make a monster mistake, know your way around fiberglass, et al. But the object of this article is to make sure there are no mistakes made, so here we go. The most difficult first: outriggers.

OUTRIGGERS

The first decision is the type of outriggers (or downriggers) you'll need and where they'll logically fit on your boat.

Now, you'd like to have 30-foot-tall sportfisherman outriggers, but mounting them on a 19-foot runabout isn't going to cut it, nor will it make you look like a 40 Cabo.

Another thing to keep in mind, insofar as location is concerned, is clearance. There are areas in the Northeast bays where trips to the ocean can require transiting four to five bascule bridges that aren't always very high. Raising and lowering outriggers five times in 40 minutes is a pain if you've mounted them where reaching them requires traveling a 6-inch walkaround each time.

There are so many different mounts available these days that you can mount outriggers on virtually everything down to, and including, sit-on-top kayaks. Those of you with T-tops (canvas or hard topped) have a peculiar problem in that outriggers are meant to be installed atop your top. Unless your supporting framework came outrigger-ready, this will require some welding for proper installation, and unless you know what MIG (metal inert gas) or TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding is, that means you'll need outside assistance. Once the plates for the outrigger assembly are welded on, the rest of the installation is pretty much a matter of putting slot A into hole B, etc.

If you happen to own a center console without a T-top, you can do this installation as described, and if you ever get a T-top, put the outriggers up there and make what we're about to do into two rod holders by simply unscrewing the outrigger receivers and replacing them with rod holder units.

TOOLS

Tools for this project are pretty basic and easily available at your local hardware store. In this example the outriggers will be mounted through the gunwales, which is probably the more difficult location, but the most logical in that they'll be out of the way, yet accessible and ready for action.

Tools include a drill, a hole bit (they look like a stubby cylinder with teeth around one edge, and they come in different circumferences), drill bits the size of the mounting holes and countersink bits for the mounting holes (this will prevent damage to your gel coat), your basic open wrenches and/or ratchet wrenches, screwdriver (Phillips head), a drill guide or jig (more about that in a minute), and some epoxy.

Of the last, check out both System Three (800-333-5514; www.ndic.com) and West System (866-937-8797; www.westsystem.com) epoxies. System Three has a trial kit, and West System has a Maxi Repair Pack; both retail for $25 and provide the material and equipment for several small projects.

LOCATION

Like the real estate agents say: location, location, location. You'll want your outrigger located approximately six to eight inches forward of a rod holder. If you haven't a rod holder located in your gunwale, the same process to be described will work for putting one in there. Simply replace 'outrigger receiver' with 'rod holder' wherever the words appear in the upcoming paragraphs.

You'll also want to make sure that nothing interferes with the operation or deployment of the outriggers.

FINAL CHECK

Before you put anything sharp near anything fiberglass, take a look under the gunwale and make sure nothing like metal bracing or electrical system wiring is in the way. If it's there, remove it or relocate it out of your cutting path.

CUTTING

You may wince at doing this, but you're going to have to cut a two-plus-inch (whatever size the outrigger receiver calls for) diameter hole in your gunwale. In all likelihood the cut will also be made on a 45-degree angle because the outrigger receiver is designed that way. You can try eyeballing a 45-degree cut, but then all bets are off.

A slightly better method is taking a piece of 2x4, looking at it from the '2' side and, using a protractor (and you thought that math you learned in school would never come in handy!), draw a 45-degree line. Working at eye level (while wearing eye protection), clamp the 2x4 down and attempt to drill a hole through the center of the 2x4 following the line marked on the pieces outside.

You now have a jig that can be sited over the center of where you want the hole. Simply drill down into the gunwale, following the jig hole. This accomplishes two things: it gives you the angle for the hole bit (which uses a straight bit as its center, so it will follow the first hole drilled), and stops your drill from skipping along the fiberglass when the initial cutting starts.

By the way: If you know anyone with a drill press, give them the wood and bingo, you've got a jig.

The smartest way to get the angle correct, and achieve a professional result, however, is to buy a commercial drill guide or jig. These are available in most woodworking stores. Sears has them under the Craftsman label for around $27; Woodwork (800/225-1153; www.woodwork.com) also has a good one for $35.

Hint: If you insist on freehanding the cut, you'll want to start the hole in the center of where you wish to place the outrigger receiver. Drill it straight down for about a quarter inch. The object is to prevent your drill from 'walking' along the fiberglass. When you're ready to cut the 45-degree angle, start in the vertical hole and shift the drill aft.

EPOXY

Once you've cut through your gunwale you must ' must ' seal off the exposed layers, whether wood or composite. Although this is unbelievably critical for wood cores, it goes for any type of core. Brush on a good coat of epoxy and that will seal the exposed core and prevent water intrusion and delaminating.

INSTALLATION

Slide the outrigger receiver into the hole. Make sure it fits all around and there are no gaps between the surface and the receiver. Mark the mounting holes, remove the receiver and, as long as you have it, use the drill jig as a guide and drill the (usually) four holes. When done, take a countersink bit and finish the top of the hole; this should prevent your gel coat from cracking when you fasten things down.

BACKING IT UP

In all likelihood a backing plate will come with the receiver, but if not, make one. Any wood or metal will work, but you'll want to seal a wood backing with epoxy and then epoxy it to the underside of the gunwale.

Aluminum bar stock works better and can be obtained in the proper width at most Home Depot/Lowes stores as well as your local hardware shop. Cut to the proper length ' insure it fits flush under the gunwale ' and with holes pre-drilled in the proper place, the receiver can then be through-bolted.

DOWNRIGGERS

After dealing with the 45-degree cut that was previously discussed, mounting a downrigger is a snap, whether manual or electric. (Go for the electric. Who wants to spend all day reeling in 250 feet of line with a cannonball on the end of it?)

Downriggers usually have a four-hole fastening system and are mounted on the aft corners of your boat on a flat surface. They can also be mounted forward of the corners and run out horizontally from the boat as well. You'll probably need at least a 5-inch square area to mount it properly. The rod holder generally comes with the downrigger assembly.

You'll want to use a backing plate on a downrigger as well, so follow the same procedure as described above and you've got your downrigger installed.