Boating World

The Sound of Silence

Try these tips to rattle-proof your boat,and guarantee yourself increased peace and quiet out on the water.

August 1, 2006

Today's powerboats are quieter than ever, so rattles and other noises that we often associate with poor construction, lack of maintenance or old age stick out noticeably. When you hear your boat rattling, you're faced with two choices: Try to ignore the noises, or find ways to stop them. To preserve your sanity and increase your enjoyment on the water, choose to wage an ongoing war against rattles and noise.

Begin by eliminating unnecessary gear that's contributing to the problem, and try to tighten-up things that are obviously loose. Add washers to screws where needed and replace screws in stripped-out holes with ones of larger diameter. This first pass takes care of the easy fixes. Now it's time to get serious.

GETTING STARTED
DoorBungee2Without getting too technical about it, rattles are the result of two relatively hard moving objects that are coming into contact with each other repeatedly. There are only two ways to stop that - prevent them from moving, or insulate them from each other. Both cures are inexpensive and easy to apply and can also be used to cut down on some of the other onboard noises that tend to irritate us.

The materials required to do the job are off-the-shelf items that are commonly available at marine and hardware stores. The most useful tools used to prevent motion are various types of stretch cord, including the ubiquitous bungee cord and custom cords that can be made up using bulk cord and end fittings sold at most marine stores. Metal hooks and other fasteners do a good job of holding things open or closed, but are often a prime source of rattles. Stretch cords keep tension on items that might vibrate, eliminating the noise.

For insulating purposes, the most useful items are various sizes of self-adhesive, high-density felt pads that are meant to be used on chairs and furniture feet to prevent them from damaging flooring. They're very densely constructed and particularly well-suited for the marine environment because they aren't affected by water, they'll conform to irregular contours, and they don't mark up light-colored surfaces. Rubber bumpers, whether self-adhesive or screw-mounted, are another handy fix, especially where greater loads or high impact are involved, but be careful to use them only where they won't mark up light-colored surfaces. Either felt or rubber, when properly placed, will eliminate the chafe that can damage gelcoat and paint.

There's no shortage of places for rattles to come from on a boat, but here are some common ones and a few simple ways to fix them:

DOORS
The folding doors in companionways are often held open by metal hooks, which can vibrate annoyingly right under your nose while you're under way. First, place a small felt pad to prevent contact at the point where the two halves of the door meet when it's folded in the open position. Then, add a small, "U"-shaped eye strap as a tie point for a miniature bungee cord, which will keep the door under tension and rattle free. The hook is still used to keep the door in place, but the cord and the felt pad keep it silent.

Other problems can arise in that same area of the boat - not rattles, but things like the noise of the head door striking a wooden companionway step when it swings open. The addition of a screw-mounted rubber bumper takes care of that in a hurry. And the step itself may not seat properly either, so it's noisy to step on. Simply add a pair of felt pads at the corners to eliminate that problem. Doors that provide access to console storage areas are often made of plexiglass or sheet plastic and can rattle obnoxiously. Add a strip of self-adhesive foam tape to the perimeter of the door; this will not only stop the noise, but will provide an effective seal against water intrusion. Now it should close with a satisfying thud instead of a loud crack.

HATCHES
RunIntro Fiberglass hatch covers in the cockpit sole are a prime source for rattles, but are easily silenced with strategically placed felt pads. A large hatch may require several pads to do the job and carry the load of foot traffic. The pads also ease the noise and shock of the hatch covers being dropped.

DRAWERS
Storage drawers can be the source of rattles, too. Whether it's knives and tools out in the bait station, or silverware and plastic cups in the galley, the contents of drawers can make a lot of noise. One solution is to buy a roll of rubber mesh shelf liner. Cut it into pieces that fit into the bottom of the drawers. A similar product is used as a non-slip insert under household area rugs. Either will do a nice job of quieting things down while helping to keep things in place. This is a solution that can be a benefit in almost any dry storage area. And it can also be wrapped around typically noisy items like charcoal or gas grills when they're stored in a locker.

ROD RACKS
Racks that hold rods, boat hooks and gaffs can be noisy. A short length of elastic shock cord stretched across the face of the rack cuts down on the noise and does a good job of keeping the contents from falling out in rough going. Use a hook-and-eye strap on one end to make it easier to get to the stored items when you need them.

BIMINI AND ENCLOSURE BOWS
In some cases, bows that support the enclosure on a boat may run perilously close to the windshield frame. It's usu-ally OK under normal conditions, but a beam wind can push it aside just enough to vibrate against the frame. This is another spot where a small felt pad makes a big difference.

OTHER FIXES
RodRack6 These are just a few examples of the many sources and cures of unwanted rattles aboard. There's no limit to how such solutions can be applied to your particular problems, however. And there are other solutions, too. Placing a very small drop of silicone sealant behind the panel, where the most motion is detected, can silence noisy, plastic panels or interior trim. When cured, it will form a rubber insulator that adheres well enough to stay in place, but can still be loosened if the panel has to be removed later.

There are many other uses for the solutions outlined here. For example, attach felt pads to the bottom of a cooler to keep it from sliding around in the cockpit. The pads grip the non-skid surface of the deck well enough that you'll no longer have to tie it down, except in the roughest weather. And felt pads can prevent a boarding ladder from scratching the hull. The list goes on and on. Make a list of your own - and enjoy the silence.