Boating World

Taking The High Road

When it comes to maintaining or replacing the parts on your trailer, taking the short cuts rarely pans out.

by Randy Scott

March 1, 2005

All too often your boat gets the glory while the trailer gets all the neglect. Too much neglect, however, can lead to serious problems. Trailers need attention. Without it they go astray, and what you didn't give a second thought to now demands your complete, undivided attention and care. And it could cost you a bundle.

Nowhere is the adage, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," more apropos than here. You don't want to spend money if you don't need to. But that's the dilemma - knowing when you need to. Is this trailer component bad enough that you need to replace it now, or can you get more use out of it? Here are a few tips to help you make that determination before you head out to the lake.

Since trailer tires are at the root of most trailering accidents, this is a good starting point. Trailer tires spend most of their life sitting idle rather than rolling down the road. For that reason, they may go bad long before the tread wears off, especially if the trailer sits outside, subjecting the tires to the elements, instead of in a protected garage. If the tire's sidewalls have spiderweb-like cracks, it's a sign that the rubber has gone bad, and the tire should be replaced - even if there's plenty of tread left. Bulges, cuts (not slight scratches), splits, flaking pieces of rubber and penetrations are other reasons to replace a tire. Driving on a damaged tire can be dangerous.

Telltale signs of bad tires often occur in vibration. Although it's easier to feel this on tow vehicle tires than on trailer tires, it's important not to ignore it when it happens. It could be a bad alignment, an unbalanced tire, or a suspension problem, which can be rectified fairly easily. On the other hand, it might be a tire gone bad. If you're not sure, take it to a tire shop, and have it checked out.

If you do a lot of towing, you need to regularly check tread depth. Many tire manufacturers recommend that the tread depth be at least one-quarter inch. There is a little safety margin here. However, if it gets to be one-eighth-inch you should get a new tire. You can use pocket change to gauge proper depth. The tread should be at least as deep as one-third the height of a dime.

If you have irregular tread wear, something is wrong (see sidebar on irregular tread wear causes and remedies). You might also want to check whether the fender or something else on the trailer is rubbing the tire, and rectify it. Be aware that this might only occur when the boat is fully loaded. If a tire continually loses pressure in short periods of time, and the leak cannot be repaired, get rid of it.

Another important consideration is your wheel hubs. If they have developed excessive wobble, it could indicate that they're improperly packed. If the problem persists after repacking, however, it probably means that you have worn out hub components that need replacement. Don't put it off. Bad hubs create extreme heat when underway, which could cause the wheel to seize, or worse, score the axle and cause it to snap off at the hub.

If you notice bearing grease splattered on the rim, it would be wise to immediately replace the rear seal. If you don't, it could lead to the scenarios described above.

If your trailer is equipped with brakes - most are - you obviously want to replace rotors, drums and other components as part of a regular maintenance schedule. However, you should also periodically inspect brake lines. If they're frayed or leaking, don't hesitate to replace them.

While you're at it, also check out the boat's wiring. If the wire's insulation is cracked or chafed, or if bare wires exist, it's time to have new wiring put in. You can forestall this, if only a small section of the wiring is damaged, by wrapping it in electrical tape. But make sure that whatever caused the chafing - a dangling wire, or one that runs across a sharp edge - is eliminated. If the entire wire shows sign of age, however, replace it all.

Burnt-out light bulbs should obviously be replaced right away. That's a no-brainer. But for some reason it's something many trailering boaters procrastinate in doing. If your lights aren't working properly, you're probably violating the law and run the risk of getting a ticket. More important, however, is that you've lost the degree of safety the law is there to ensure.

Rust is one of your trailer's worst enemies. It's like gangrene; it spreads and destroys if not treated. So if you're quick to treat rust spots, it will increase the longevity of your trailer. But if a component becomes badly rusted, you should bite the bullet and pay to have it replaced. Rust weakens the structural integrity of a trailer and could result in a total, and sometimes catastrophic, breakdown. Bear in mind that sometimes the worst rust is inside channels and tubes and not quickly discernable from the outside. Take time to inspect it carefully. If you can't see the inside, push on the metal. If it gives at all, you should replace it.

You should also watch for cracked welds, which are precursors to disaster, and have them repaired without delay. A small crack can lead to a total break in an instant should you hit a large pothole or bump while trailering.

If the trailer is bolted together rather than welded, replace rusted bolts early. Small rust spots on the bolts can be treated with a rust remover and a protective lubricant. But if you have difficulty backing off the nut due to rust, it's time to replace it altogether. The same applies if the bolt has worn through part way by rubbing on the frame.

If your trailer is equipped with rollers, you should replace them when they quit rolling if a little lubricant does not remedy the problem. If the roller assembly is bent and you cannot straighten it, replace it with a new assembly that properly conforms to the boat's hull. Otherwise, you could cause serious hull damage.

The same holds true if you have a warped trailer bunk that no longer conforms to the hull as it should. If the trailer came from the boat manufacturer, the bunks and rollers are strategically located to support key areas of the boat's hull. If they don't do this properly, you'll be facing boat repairs.

To avoid any scratches and dings to your boat's gel coat, you should repair or replace loose or torn bunk carpeting as quickly as possible.

Finally, replace frayed winch straps and tie downs as soon as you find them. In addition to helping you load the boat and aligning the boat's stem into the trailer yoke, the winch strap holds the boat in place while trailering; you don't want to chance it breaking under the stress of a bumpy road at 60 mph. Ditto for transom straps. And if the eyebolts that the straps attach to are showing signs of fatigue, replace them right away.

Your best bet is that if you run across something you're not sure needs replacement now or later, take the high road, and do it now. It's worth the peace of mind, if nothing else. You're going to do it eventually anyhow, and to err on the side of doing it early is the smarter course.