Adding A Sink
Add an aftermarket sink to your boat.
by David S. Yetman
January 30, 2008
T
here are many occasions in the boating lifestyle when having access to a sink and running
water would be a great convenience. Whether you're cleaning a fish, or Junior has smeared peanut
butter and jelly all over his face, having the ability to clean up right on the spot is invaluable.
One solution is to install a faucet in a baitwell so it can be used as a sink, and chances are
pretty good a drain has been installed, so the job has already been started for you.
Step 1
Whether the well is in the transom, as shown here, or located elsewhere, the first order of
business is to see if a conversion is realistically even possible. Of course, your boat must
initially be outfitted with a pressurized freshwater system, although the output of a washdown
system can alternatively be used if the boat is operated in fresh water. Make sure you have access
to the back of the panel, where you'll be mounting the faucet, and there isn't any moving equipment
- like the steering components - that is likely to interfere with the installation. Ensure there's
a path that allows you to run the tubing to connect the faucet with the boat's existing system.
When selecting the sink's location, just remember that you'll need to access these connections
later for service, or to drain the system for winterization purposes.
Step 2
Choose the fixture you'll use. The installation pictured here uses a faucet and a pull-out
sprayer, which can be used as a transom shower. The sprayer is a common kitchen accessory available
at most hardware stores. Choosing a faucet that is also threaded to accept a garden hose will
multiply its uses. The most inexpensive fixture is a sill cock, which is used for the exterior
connections in homes. Made from unplated brass, these utilitarian faucets aren't fancy, but are
easy to mount and are often available threaded to accept standardized male half-inch National Pipe
Tap (NPT) fittings. Chrome-plated brass or stainless-steel faucets are available through marine
supply stores; however, they often cost more than the common variety. They may also be more
difficult to mount if (like the hardware pictured above) they have to be fastened to the panel by a
large nut on the back side.
Step 2
Step 3
Determine how you'll connect the new fixtures into the existing system. The fixtures you
select for this should have threaded connections or hose barbs that will allow them to be adapted
into the existing system. The most common adapter for these fixtures will combine male threading on
one end and a hose barb on the other. A triple-barb tee fitting is handy for tapping into the
existing system or for adding a sprayer. The tubing type and size you use doesn't have to exactly
match what's in the present system, so long as you can find the fittings that will adapt one part
to the other. Clear polyethylene tubing is fully adequate for most cold-water installations, but
reinforced tubing is better, especially if hot water will be involved. Lay the parts out on the
floor, and then connect them all together to make sure everything fits prior to beginning your
installation.
Step 3
Step 4
Begin this step by covering the installation area for the faucet with masking tape to make
it easier for marking, and to protect the surrounding area from any accidental damage. Make sure
there are no wires or hoses behind the panel that could be damaged when you drill through. Cut the
hole for the faucet, using a rotary hole saw (preferred), or a flat speed-bore bit in an electric
drill. Drill pilot-holes for any of the required mounting screws, then remove the tape and sand the
edges of the large hole to prevent any gelcoat chipping. Cut the water supply line, insert the tee
fitting, and put the system together before mounting. This will allow you to pressure-test the
system for leaks while you're still able to see it. Remember that all hose-to-barb fittings in
pressurized lines must be secured with stainless-steel hose clamps.
Step 4
