Idaho's Coeur d'Alene Lake

Idaho's Coeur d'Alene Lake is one of the Northwest's most beautiful boating destinations.

by Randy Scott

May 1, 2002

Neon curtains of green light dance in the sky in the wee hours of the morning. Some lights resemble thin rain-like sheets, but with a movement similar to flames in an open campfire; others look like curtains being blown in the wind. As the eerie illumination comes overhead it shoots upward into a vortex-like vacuum. The breathtaking display is like something out of a sci-fi movie, only it's real. What the night-owl residents and insomniacs of Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, are witnessing is an awesome display of the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. A mere 100 miles from the Canadian border, in Idaho's northern panhandle, the 32,000 inhabitants of the resort community are occasionally treated to this amazing electro-magnetic atmospheric phenomenon, but seldom is the display so spectacular. It is not the chance happening of a Northern Lights show, however, that attracts visitors to Coeur d'Alene. Rather, most of them are lured by the lake. Or lakes. There are about 60 of them within an hour's drive. But Coeur d'Alene Lake, at an elevation of 2,187 feet, is the most popular. The lake is about 30 miles long, ranges from 1 to 3 miles wide, and offers boaters 109 miles of pine-forested shoreline and rock outcroppings to explore. Three rivers, the Coeur d'Alene, St. Joe and St. Maries, feed the pristine lake from the south. Its outlet is the Spokane River to the north, which flows into Washington where it eventually joins the Columbia River and empties into the Pacific Ocean. Combined, it creates a diverse water system in one of the most naturally beautiful settings in the country. Much of the boating takes place on the lake's north side, near the town of the same name. It is also where you'll find the spectacular gable-towered Coeur d'Alene Resort nestled against the forested Tubbs Hill peninsula that is dotted with numerous little beaches tucked in among the rocks and pines. The resort is ideal for trailerboaters because it has an adjoining launch ramp and marina. It also serves as a hub for mixed activity in its own right, with features that include a spa, restaurants, live entertainment (including a floating stage) and an air bridge that connects to the city mall. Not too far from the resort is an award-winning golf course with the world's only floating green. But one of the most popular features is the marina's floating boardwalk, which at 3,300 feet in length is said to be the world's longest. It runs along the outside perimeter of the marina and affords a spectacular, unobstructed view of the lake and surrounding mountains and has a smattering of wood benches for those who want to pause and soak up the beautiful environment. Cruising west of the resort leads you past long sandy beaches, popular for picnics and sunbathing, to the mouth of the Spokane River, which is navigable for only a relatively short distance due to the Post Falls dam. On the west shore of the river is a full-service marina named the Cedars Floating Restaurant. In this area it is also common to see brailes of floating logs that have been corralled and pulled here by tugboats en route to lumber mills. Boaters have to be extremely cautious and avoid pieces of timber that have broken free from these log rafts. A favorite cruise is to head south from the resort toward the languid St. Joe and Coeur d'Alene rivers. Just east is Mineral Ridge, which is designated as a 'Watchable Wildlife' area. Every January during the annual eagle migration, these majestic birds of prey flock to this area and can be seen diving down to lift chinook salmon from the water with their powerful talons. Of course, since January is very cold in northern Idaho, usually the only boats that venture onto the water are those equipped with heaters. However, the eagles can also be observed from 3.3-mile-long Mineral Ridge Recreation Trail, which rises 700 feet to afford fantastic views of the lake and surrounding area. Idaho's largest state park, Heyburn, is also nearby. Heyburn encompasses more than 5,000 acres of forestland and 2,000 acres of waterways, including three lakes interconnected by the St. Joe River. One of the things that makes Heyburn stand out from other state parks is its annual wild rice harvest every fall. By traveling the length of Coeur d'Alene Lake and heading up the St. Joe River toward St. Maries, you can reach an altitude of 2,128 feet, which makes the St. Joe the highest navigable river in the world. Of course, one of the biggest attractions is fishing. The St. Joe River is considered the best cut-throat trout stream in the entire panhandle. And while Coeur d'Alene Lake is also good for cut-throat fishing, it is better known for its chinook salmon. In fact, the largest landlocked chinook salmon ever caught in the state - a 42-pounder - came from Coeur d'Alene. The lake also produced the state record for northern pike at 38 pounds 9 ounces. There are numerous other species of fish to be caught, including bass, crappie, perch and other types of trout. An angler stands a good chance of catching something, but you'll likely do better if you hire one of the local guides who knows the hot spots and feeding preferences. Whether it's fishing, cruising, wildlife watching, camping or entertaining hopes of seeing the dramatic Northern Lights, Coeur d'Alene Lake has it all. No matter how many times you visit, you'll never tire of it. Although the only airport in Coeur d'Alene is a small one for private use, the city is not difficult to get to. It is only 34 miles east of Spokane, Washington, which has an international airport, and shuttle services are available. The city itself is situated at the juncture of Interstate 90, which passes through east-west, and US Highway 95, which runs north-south. A variety of information on the city and its surroundings is available from the Coeur d'Alene/Post Falls Convention & Visitors Bureau (800/292-2553). Another source is the Coeur d'Alene Area Chamber of Commerce (208/664-3194 or www.coeurdalene.com). If you're not going to be trailering your boat to Coeur d'Alene, rentals are available. Boardwalk Marina Modus Operandi (208/765-4000 ext. 7185) rents runabouts and pontoon boats, while Excursions West (800/570-8807 or www.excursionsnw.com) offers houseboats and PWCs. If you want a bird's eye view of the lake, you can go parasailing or for a hot air balloon ride (Avian Balloon, 509/928-6847). Sea plane rides are also available (Brooks Sea Plane, 208/664-2842). A great place to stay is the Coeur d'Alene Resort (800/688-5253) located on the waterfront and within easy walking distance of downtown. And if you want to pull your boat up to a restaurant for a meal, two on-the-water locations are Cedars Floating Restaurant (208/664-2922), which specializes in charbroiled fresh fish, and The Beachhouse (208/664-6464).