If there is one thing ' just one thing ' that you remember from this article, it should be this:
A small amount of regular maintenance will save you both work and expense. Take your hull, for
example. By rinsing the hull thoroughly after boating to get rid of salt, and by applying a coat of
wax at the beginning and end of the season, you can postpone the effort and cost of a major gel
coat restoration or a repaint for many years.
A second point to keep in mind is that you shouldn't (and probably can't) do everything at
once. If you plan a schedule of maintenance, you'll find that a little maintenance every time you
use your boat is far more than enough to stay ahead of all your projects.
It isn't possible to cover all the maintenance tasks for all types of boats in one article,
so use the suggestions here as a basis for starting your own schedule, and learn each project as
you progress.
Hull
Daily
The most important thing you can do each time you use your boat is to rinse off the topsides
thoroughly to get rid of salt, grime and any chemicals that might attack the gel coat. Use a
long-handled brush around the boot top to get rid of stains, and if you have marks on your hull
such as those from dirty fenders or creosoted pilings, use a non-abrasive boat cleaner to get them
off immediately. Leaving them for a week only makes them more resistant to removal and allows the
stain to penetrate the gel coat.
Monthly
Inspect the hull for rust streaks under fittings, and use a mild rubbing compound to remove
the marks. Make a note of any dings or scratches in the hull, and repair them as soon as possible.
Annually
Whether you do your boating on lakes or in the ocean, if you leave your boat in the water you
need to protect the bottom with antifouling paint to prevent the growth of barnacles (in salt
water) or slime (in fresh). Be sure to remove any existing bottom paint that is flaking, and make
sure the new paint is compatible with the old.
While you're hauled out, inspect the through-hull fittings and transducers. Any lingering
water spots or wet patches can indicate leakage and should be investigated. Now is also the time to
replace the zincs even if they don't seem corroded.
Fiberglass is a great material, but it's not nearly 'maintenance-free' as once claimed. The
color layer, called gel coat, will begin to oxidize as soon as it is exposed to the weather. You
can restore that glossy finish by waxing your hull at the beginning and end of each season. Be sure
to use a marine wax, since automotive waxes will yellow and deteriorate quickly in the harsh marine
atmosphere. If you have an expanse of topsides, you can rent a buffer to take a lot of the elbow
grease out of applying and polishing the wax coat. After several years, you'll probably need to use
a mild rubbing compound to remove oxidation and restore color, but regular waxings can long
postpone that project.
Deck
Daily
No matter what type of non-skid surface you have on your deck, it will hold dirt. So, as part
of your after-boating cleanup, rinse the deck and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away the dirt
using a boat cleaner.
If the wood trim on your deck and cockpit is varnished, give it a quick inspection before you
leave each day. If you've dinged the varnish, now is the time to touch it up before it stains the
wood and requires revarnishing. Keep a nail polish bottle filled with varnish handy ' the built-in
brush is perfect for those nicks.
Monthly
Make a point of inspecting the rails, pulpits, and handrails for strength. Give the
stanchions a tug and check for any looseness. You'll probably find some rust weeping around the
base of even stainless-steel fittings, so use the same method as on your hull to rid the stain.
Fiberglass dings don't continue to deteriorate like wood, but it's a good idea to repair
scratches and chips promptly. The longer you wait, the less likely it is you'll be able to match
the color of the gel coat.
Annually
Your hull finish may take a beating from water and docks, but the deck bears the full brunt
of sun and weather, so it doesn't take long for it to lose its shine. At least once a season (twice
is better), give the smooth surfaces of your deck and cabin a good coat of quality marine wax.
Do not, under any circumstances, wax areas where your crew is likely to step or brace when
the boat is underway.
If you have varnished wood on deck, you'll need to renew the finish each year. If you've
touched up the nicks, then you can probably get away with a good sanding and a couple of coats of
varnish. If you didn't, well, plan on stripping it down to the bare wood. Teak presents problems of
its own, since you can oil it, varnish it, bleach it or simply leave it to turn grayish. Whichever
your choice (except the last), you'll need to freshen the finish each year.
Interior
Daily
You have two enemies when it comes to the interior of your boat: dirt and salt. Dirt, of
course, becomes a breeding ground for mildew and mold, which, once they get a foothold, can be
tough to eradicate. Salt spray that reaches your interior also contributes to mildew because, after
the spray is dried, it leaves salt crystals. These crystals are hygroscopic, which means that they
attract moisture from the air, so your bunk cushions, sleeping bags, jackets and anything else in
the cabin will remain slightly damp.
There is no substitute for cleaning the cabin on a regular basis. A portable hand vacuum can
make quick work of the lint and dust balls that seem to come from nowhere. If you know that some
spray found its way below, use a household spray cleaner to eliminate it immediately.
The head is a problem unto itself, and you'll have to face the fact that it needs to be
cleaned on a daily basis. Lots of paper towels and a powerful bathroom cleaner are your allies in
keeping this area odor and mildew free.
The galley, with food crumbs and spills, is another problem area. Clean the counter
thoroughly, and don't forget to clean the front of the lockers where spills may have dribbled.
Empty the icebox, sponge out any leftover water, and prop the lid open with a box of baking soda
inside to kill any odors.
Monthly
To stay ahead of the battle against moisture and mildew, plan to prop all the bunk cushions
up so that the bottom sides can air out at least once a month. Use a mold-fighting spray like Lysol
in areas where you see dark blemishes, and open the hanging lockers and drawers as well. The
enemies of mold are sunlight and fresh air, so don't let anything stagnate.
Annually
Remove all the bunk cushions, and if you can strip their covers, have them thoroughly
cleaned. Now is the time to clean the cabin curtains as well. Take all your clothing home, clean
the drawers thoroughly, and leave them open for airing. After a season of boating, any carpet is
likely to be pretty tired, so either throw it away or take it home for cleaning.
If you have varnished wood bulkheads or trim, plan to add a protective coat of varnish, but
be sure that the wood is actually varnished. Many builders apply epoxy resin or other clear
coatings that aren't compatible with varnish. If the finish is in good condition, wipe it down
completely with a mild bleach solution to both clean and mildew-proof it during the winter.
With everything out of the cabin, take a look for signs of leaks such as stains on the hull
or discoloration of wood, and arrange to have these fixed.
Give your head a thorough inspection. Depending on the type, you may want to buy a service
kit at your marine hardware store, which will replace essential gaskets, o-rings or other parts to
keep the head free of problems.
If you can find an hour or so in the morning before casting off to take care of some regular
maintenance, then at the end of the year you don't really have much work to do. Maintenance doesn't
have to get ahead of you because, after all, work only becomes 'work' when there is too much of it
at one time. Spread out your projects, plan your tasks, and you'll find that maintenance can be one
of the secret pleasures of boating.
|
|
July 2002 |