BoatCraft Q&A: Sounding Off

Has your boat's horn gone from squawk to squeak? Before replacing it, a few quick fixes may do the trick.

by David G. Brown

Q: My boat is about six years old, and this season the horn quit working. It seemed to be fine, then it wouldn't even squawk. Sometimes when I push the button, I think I hear a "thud" sound, but not always. Is there any way to fix the old horn, or do I have to buy a new one?
- Chris Smith, Pittsburgh, PA

A: Electric vibrating diaphragm horns typically installed on pleasure boats aren't the best examples of the state-of-the-art in marine equipment. Even in fresh water, they have a tendency to corrode rather quickly, or the vibrating contacts can freeze up. Either way, that once-mighty blast becomes the sound of silence.

Many seasoned boaters have tried to repair at least one set of electric horns. It seems so easy. And, sometimes the results are gratifying - at least for a short period of time. Once horns start giving you trouble, however, they're on their way out. Usually sooner than later, you'll be buying a new set.

Before you reach for the wrenches and screwdrivers, however, be sure the problem isn't electrical. A blown fuse or popped circuit breaker will silence the horn faster than any mechanical problem. Push the button. You should hear a "thunk" sound inside the horn and see a large electrical demand on the boat's ammeter. If not, use a voltage tester to check the circuit out. Horn buttons do go bad, and wires can break.

This past season, I learned of several cases where mud dauber wasps built their abodes in the trumpets of boat horns. Their nests can really clog up the diaphragm and silence it. A small wooden dowel can be used to break up the nest, however. Tapping the trumpet lightly with a soft mallet may also loosen the mud enough to get the voice back.

One fellow I spoke with even got a little creative, pouring hot water down the trumpets. It seemed to work. The mud dissolved, and he was able to get the horns sounding again. Time will tell, however, if this was a "quick fix," or a longer-term solution.

Frozen or corroded electrical parts are a job for that "tool-kit-in-a-can." Spraying a water-dispersing lubricant (e.g. WD-40) into the working electrical parts is another time-honored solution. Surprisingly, it can work well. Take the protective outer shield off of the back end of the horn to get at the electrical coils and contacts inside. Be sure your spray is labeled for electrical work, though.

After applying the spray, "bump" the horn button several times until it starts making noise again. Each time the button is pushed, you should see current demand on the ammeter. Sometimes tapping the base of the horn with a rubber mallet while pushing the button will jar the vibrator contacts into working again. Once it sounds, let the horn bray for several seconds to work out the kinks before taking your thumb off the button.

Vibrating diaphragm horns have a screw adjustment that increases or decreases the opening of the contacts. This screw adjusts the pitch of the horn, as well as loudness. Turning this screw may be necessary to get the horn to sound off. After it starts making noise, turn the screw to a loud, pleasant tone.

When you're tired of messing with the old horn, replace it by removing the two feed wires and attaching them to the new device. Drilling holes for mounting hardware is unnecessary if you buy an exact replacement. Although they're relatively new, piezo-electric horns claim extended lifespan with no moving parts. The loudness of these solid-state devices is said to be equivalent to old-fashioned vibrating diaphragm horns.

Q: We have a new puppy that will be going boating with us for the first time this summer. We're hoping she adapts to the water. But what happens if the dog accidentally falls overboard? How can we protect her and get her back aboard?
- Tina Sanchez, Miami, FL

Most pets can swim, but they still need to have a life vest.

A: You'll be glad to know there are life jackets made just for pets. Most dogs seem to tolerate them, but cats tend to have a different opinion about being wrapped in flotation foam. You might want to put the "pooch PFD" on the dog around the house a few times to acclimate her before the first outing on the boat.

Most dogs and cats are surprisingly good swimmers when they have to be. Many dogs actually enjoy jumping in for a swim to cool off. Believe it or not, somebody has even come up with a doggy boat ladder that clips onto your boat's swim platform. Called "Paws Aboard," it has dog-sized steps that extend below the surface of the water. The ladder is made of ABS plastic and folds for storage.

Cats have been known to slide right off the deck, especially when the boat is docked. Some owners hook beach towels to the railing with one end dangling in the water. I've heard a wet cat will scamper up the towel to safety, but I haven't actually seen this happen myself.

Q: I'm considering moving to a brand-new marina. The floating docks are wonderful, but for some reason they installed 50-amp outlets, even on docks for boats like my 26-footer. My power cord has a 30-amp connector. What can I do?
- Jim Stuertevant, Toledo, OH

A: Problems always arise when architects design facilities without close consultation with the ultimate users. Unfortunately, you'll either have to choose a different marina or pay the price for their mistake. What follows is a general discussion of options available to you using standard AC shorepower cords and adaptors made for use on boats. But before you do anything, consult with a licensed electrician to learn about local codes and other related safety issues.

An adaptor to go from a 50-amp outlet to the 30-amp male plug on your cord is available from marine stores, usually by special order. This is one item you wouldn't want to improvise yourself. The commercial adaptor is waterproof for your safety.

Hooking your boat's existing shorepower cable to the 50-amp outlet on the dock through the adaptor will work fine. However, the circuit breaker on the dock will allow more current to flow than what your existing 30-amp power cord is designed to handle. For ultimate safety, you should buy a new 50-amp power cable, and put the adaptor at the boat end.

Realistically, you can't rewire your boat. So, be sure you have a working 30-amp breaker on the incoming power before it goes through your boat's AC distribution panel. With the new cord and adaptor, you're looking at about a $500 one-time expense to move into that new marina.

However, you might want to ask if you can have the 50-amp service changed to a 30-amp breaker and outlet to match your boat. This might cost less in the long run. But, whatever you do, check with a licensed electrician first.

Q: We plan to take our boat on a cross-country vacation to a variety of lakes and rivers this coming summer. The boat will be bouncing down the highway for several thousand miles, and I'm worried about the outboard lower unit. I'd like to keep it "up" for road clearance, but I'm always afraid it'll drop down and something will be damaged.
- Tom Jenkins, St. Louis, MO

A: Fulton and Swivl-Eze offer support struts that go between the trailer and outboard lower unit. They're designed to support the outboard and keep it from bouncing around on the highway. DuraSafe has even upped the ante on this. It makes a similar strut that has an added locking hook to prevent someone from stealing your propellor when the boat is parked overnight. Prices start around $50 and go up to about $100 - which is a cheap price to pay for your peace of mind.

Your outboard not only bounces, but the power head tries to swing port and starboard when trailering. MarineTech offers stabilizer clips that go on the hydraulic steering rods that connect to the engine. They're colored bright orange so you won't forget them when you launch the boat.

For owners with outdrive boats, Sierra makes plastic clips that snap onto the tilt cylinder rods of I/O lower units. These clips are designed to take the pressure off the hydraulic tilt system while trailering.

Send your BoatCraft Q&A questions to Dave Brown c/o Boating World, 2100 Powers Ferry Road, Atlanta, GA 30339. You can also e-mail your questions to editor@boatingworld.com. Due to the volume of inquiries he receives, Dave Brown will be unable to answer every question.