Look Before You Launch
You can save yourself time and money if you take a moment to follow these 12 pre-launch steps before you head out on the water.
by Chris Caswell
April 1, 2002
You can probably get away with neglecting your car, at least for a little while, because you drive
it daily and you'll remember at least once a year to drop it by the garage for a tuneup and an oil
change. But boats are different ' they don't like being neglected at all.
Every time you use your boat, you need to get into the habit of running down a mental
checklist to ensure that you have a perfect day on the water. Besides, a little investment of time
in regular checks can save you sizable amounts of both money and time later.
'Yeah, but I checked it last time' isn't a good excuse, either, because you'd be surprised
by what can go wrong since just last weekend. Besides, chances are you didn't give your engine a
glance then, anyway. At the end of a long day on the water, you probably just turn off the engine,
hose off the decks, and head for home. But eventually that's going to land you in trouble. Here are
a dozen items to check off your list before you get going.
1. Coolant
If you have a freshwater cooling system, check the coolant level before you fire the engine
up. Once hot, you shouldn't open the system or you'll risk a serious burn. The coolant should be up
to the proper mark, and if it isn't, don't just
top it off, but check to see why. There may be stains around a hose clamp that would
indicate a leak.
2. Batteries
In ancient times (read: more than a decade ago), most boats had batteries on which you could
actually check the level of the electrolyte in each cell. Today, most boats rely on
maintenance-free or gel-cell batteries, which can't be easily checked for this condition. If you
have the older-style batteries, be sure to fill any low cells with distilled water. On all
batteries, take a look at the posts and clamps to make sure they haven't built up a whitish
corrosion that can drain off power.
3. Belts
Check the drive belts for tension (they should flex about 1/4-inch when you push on them
with one finger), and they should be free of any cracks or worn spots.
4. Hoses
Whether you have fresh- or raw-water cooling, take a look at the hoses. Each hose should be
in good condition, without any visible cracks or cuts, and it should be fairly firm if you give it
a squeeze. If you have any doubts about a hose, replace it before you use your boat. A broken hose
can not only ruin your engine, but it can sink your boat as well.
5. Clamps
Look at the hose clamps to make sure that they're securely tightened. There should be double
clamps on any hoses near or below the waterline, and while hose clamps don't vibrate loose, your
mechanic may have forgotten to tighten one during service.
6. Oil
Always check the oil. It may be awkward to pull the dipstick, but oil is the lifeblood of
your engine, so you need to get in the habit. If the oil level is low, top it up immediately. That
missing oil is your safety margin, and when it's gone, any further loss is liable to fry your
engine, which can be very expensive. Don't try to remember to do it when you return, either,
because you'll always forget. You should also check the quality of the oil when you check the
quantity. If it's dark and dirty, plan to change it soon, because it's losing the lubricating
qualities your engine requires.
7. Fluid
Depending on the type of engine you have, you may have ancillary systems that should be
checked as well. For example, if you have power steering, make sure there is ample fluid in the
reservoir so that you don't get air in the system and reduce your control. If your engine has oil
injection, you'll have an oil reservoir that also needs to be inspected and topped up.
8. Transmission
Check your transmission's fluid level. Usually there is a dipstick, but some have a sight
glass, and sterndrives often have a removable bolt on the side. Most inboard transmissions should
be checked when the engine is idling in neutral at normal operating temperature. Be sure you refill
with the proper type of fluid ' any other kind causes endless problems.
9. Snoop
While your head's in the engine compartment, take a look around. If you see drip marks,
which might indicate an oil or water leak, find out what caused them. Are there any loose wires
that might get caught in a moving engine part?
10. Sniff
Before you leave the engine room, take a big sniff. Even the most sophisticated electronic
sensor is no match for your nose (unless you have a cold) when it comes to detecting gas fumes.
Before you start the blower, make sure your own sniffer approves.
11. Final Check
Once you finish in the engine compartment, your work isn't done. Start the engine and check
to make sure that the oil pressure gauge moves quickly into the proper zone. If not, shut the
engine down and find out why before the problem becomes expensive. The ampmeter should also show
that the battery is charging. Take a look over the side to make sure that cooling water is being
pumped out of the engine.
12. Last But Not Least ...
Here's one item not usually included in your routine engine checks, but it's too often
overlooked: Don't forget to check the fuel gauge.
The list of items may seem long, but will become second nature and takes only a few minutes.
Those few minutes, how-ever, are the mark of a competent and responsible skipper, as well as one
who rarely has problems on the water.