T here are many occasions in the boating lifestyle when having access to a sink and running water would be a great convenience. Whether you're cleaning a fish, or Junior has smeared peanut butter and jelly all over his face, having the ability to clean up right on the spot is invaluable. One solution is to install a faucet in a baitwell so it can be used as a sink, and chances are pretty good a drain has been installed, so the job has already been started for you.

Step 1

Whether the well is in the transom, as shown here, or located elsewhere, the first order of business is to see if a conversion is realistically even possible. Of course, your boat must initially be outfitted with a pressurized freshwater system, although the output of a washdown system can alternatively be used if the boat is operated in fresh water. Make sure you have access to the back of the panel, where you'll be mounting the faucet, and there isn't any moving equipment - like the steering components - that is likely to interfere with the installation. Ensure there's a path that allows you to run the tubing to connect the faucet with the boat's existing system. When selecting the sink's location, just remember that you'll need to access these connections later for service, or to drain the system for winterization purposes.


Step 2

Choose the fixture you'll use. The installation pictured here uses a faucet and a pull-out sprayer, which can be used as a transom shower. The sprayer is a common kitchen accessory available at most hardware stores. Choosing a faucet that is also threaded to accept a garden hose will multiply its uses. The most inexpensive fixture is a sill cock, which is used for the exterior connections in homes. Made from unplated brass, these utilitarian faucets aren't fancy, but are easy to mount and are often available threaded to accept standardized male half-inch National Pipe Tap (NPT) fittings. Chrome-plated brass or stainless-steel faucets are available through marine supply stores; however, they often cost more than the common variety. They may also be more difficult to mount if (like the hardware pictured above) they have to be fastened to the panel by a large nut on the back side.

Step 3

Determine how you'll connect the new fixtures into the existing system. The fixtures you select for this should have threaded connections or hose barbs that will allow them to be adapted into the existing system. The most common adapter for these fixtures will combine male threading on one end and a hose barb on the other. A triple-barb tee fitting is handy for tapping into the existing system or for adding a sprayer. The tubing type and size you use doesn't have to exactly match what's in the present system, so long as you can find the fittings that will adapt one part to the other. Clear polyethylene tubing is fully adequate for most cold-water installations, but reinforced tubing is better, especially if hot water will be involved. Lay the parts out on the floor, and then connect them all together to make sure everything fits prior to beginning your installation.


Step 4

Begin this step by covering the installation area for the faucet with masking tape to make it easier for marking, and to protect the surrounding area from any accidental damage. Make sure there are no wires or hoses behind the panel that could be damaged when you drill through. Cut the hole for the faucet, using a rotary hole saw (preferred), or a flat speed-bore bit in an electric drill. Drill pilot-holes for any of the required mounting screws, then remove the tape and sand the edges of the large hole to prevent any gelcoat chipping. Cut the water supply line, insert the tee fitting, and put the system together before mounting. This will allow you to pressure-test the system for leaks while you're still able to see it. Remember that all hose-to-barb fittings in pressurized lines must be secured with stainless-steel hose clamps.