Q: My boat has never had bottom paint and has only run on fresh water. The bottom is just as it was when the boat came from the dealer. Now, I'm thinking about wet-docking the boat. I want to apply bottom paint and need to know if I should apply a barrier coat.
- Gregg Buchanan, via e-mail

A: As far as getting bottom paint to adhere to your boat, the answer is "no." A barrier coat isn't necessary. Bottom paint will stick to fiberglass gelcoat. In fact, that was the normal procedure until boat blisters became an epidemic in the early '80s. That said, you still might want to go ahead and apply a barrier coat for easier maintenance over time.
 
Barrier coats are designed to prevent what is called "osmotic blistering" of the fiberglass laminate. They work by creating a waterproof skin so the bottom never comes in contact with the water. Antifouling bottom paints allow water to penetrate. They don't provide the barrier effect and only protect against marine growth such as algae, zebra mussels, barnacles, etc.

Your boat has probably either been trailered or rack-stored up until now. It wasn't kept in the water, so you didn't need either a barrier coat or antifouling. Now you want to wet-dock the boat, and both become an issue. You could just paint the bottom and have no problems. However, repairing a case of the "boat pox" and then applying a barrier coat costs a lot more than applying the barrier in the beginning. Start by having the bottom professionally pressure-washed, even if the boat has been dry-sailed all its life. This will remove   surface dirt and grime that might prevent adhesion of the barrier coat and paint.

You'll want to start with a dry fiberglass laminate. Don't be fooled by the outward appearance. Water does penetrate into the laminate during ordinary service. Drying out the hull is the easiest part of the job - simply put the boat away without doing anything this fall. Kick back and enjoy Thanksgiving, Christmas and the Super Bowl. Next spring, the bottom should be dry enough for the real work to begin.

Pettit, Interlux and WEST System  all offer barrier coat products. They each have advantages, and each present certain application problems. While you're kickin' back this winter, study the literature to decide which system is best for you. Once you decide, purchase all solvents, the bottom paint and other supplies that are compatible with the barrier coat system. Have everything on hand before you start the job.

Wipe the dry bottom with a commercial de-waxing agent. Follow by sanding the bottom lightly. I use an electric palm sander with 80-grit paper and light pressure. This gives a "tooth" to the gelcoat to help the barrier coat adhere. Wipe off the dust with solvent, and let the chemical dry thoroughly. Apply the barrier coat exactly as the manufacturer suggests. Don't deviate from the procedure. Pay particular attention to drying times between coats or drying time between final barrier coat and application of the bottom paint.

Q: A friend and I are having a friendly argument. I say you should apply polish to your boat in the fall to protect it during the winter. He says that's a waste of time, because you just have to clean and wax the boat again in the spring. Who's right?
- Charlie Johnson, Indianapolis, IN

A: "Different ships, different long splices," as the ol' salts used to say. There's no wrong time to apply a coat of wax or sealer to prevent oxidation of the fiberglass gelcoat. Of course, indoor winter storage goes a long way toward preventing oxidation, so a fall application isn't absolutely necessary. However, it's a lot easier to get a boat ready in the spring when it's waxed in the fall. There's no doubt that protecting the gelcoat against the summer sun and exposure to other elements is always necessary.

Q: My husband wants a "good pair" of binoculars for the boat. What does that mean? I'm thinking of buying him binoculars for Christmas, but I'm confused by all the numbers. How expensive will they be?
- Anne McKim, Lowell, MA

A: There are only two numbers you have to know - the power (magnification) and the diameter of the objective lens. The power can be anywhere from four to 10, meaning objects will appear four to 10 times closer when viewed through the binoculars. The diameter of the lens is given in millimeters and will run from about 25 to 50 mm. The larger the diameter, the brighter the image.

A seven-power binocular with a 50-mm objective lens is an excellent overall combination for boating. Few people can hold more than a seven-power binocular on target while standing on a moving deck. High-power binoculars (8 times and larger) are best used on shore where motion isn't a problem.

A 50-mm objective lens lets in enough light that the binoculars are still useful at night. Smaller objective lenses produce images that are often too dark to be seen under anything less than a full moon. Good binoculars have coated lenses to improve light transmission, and the best are fully multi-coated with multiple layers for even better light transmission.

Marine binoculars are waterproof and protected against rough treatment by a rubber coating. Both are important. Moisture condensing on the inside lenses is harder to see through than a "pea soup" fog. The rubber casing softens impacts that might otherwise jar the lenses loose and render the binoculars useless.

Older design binoculars required the viewer to focus each eye independently. Newer binoculars have a center focus system that requires only one operation. Some binoculars have the optics adjusted so focusing isn't needed for distant objects. A decent pair of marine 7x50 binoculars costs about $80. Add a built-in compass for taking bearings on nearby objects, and the price jumps to $200 or more. Top-of-the-line binoculars start at $400 and go up to $1,000.

Q: I'm new to boating, so after purchasing a used 22-footer with an I/O, I can't understand why the engine runs fine until I shift into reverse. It stalls as if the key were shut off. It restarts and runs fine in forward. The problem only happens in reverse and not all of the time either. What gives?
- Don Singleton, Bryan, OH

A: On certain models of I/O units, there's a switch that momentarily cuts off the ignition when you shift. This releases the pressure on the gears so they won't bind during the shifting action. If everything is working correctly, you'll never notice the momentary "hit" on the ignition. However, that switch can get out of adjustment over time. When it does, problems occur like what you described. Have a factory-trained mechanic check the adjustment of the cutout switch. If wear and tear prevents it from being adjusted properly, a replacement switch should fix the problem.

Send your Boatcraft Q&A questions  to Dave Brown c/o Boating World , 2100 Powers Ferry Road, Atlanta, GA 30339. You can also e-mail your questions to editor@boatingworld.com. Due to the volume of inquiries Dave Brown receives, he will be unable to answer every question.