Anyone who has spent any time in a cuddy cabin knows what a relief it can be to have a cool breeze wafting through an open hatch. But opening and closing a hatch can be a pain because many of them are equipped with insect screens that must be removed and set aside to get to the latches. In addition to being inconvenient and difficult to work with while the boat’s bobbing around, the constant handling exposes the screen to damage or even loss. A simple fix is to attach the screen with hinges so that it swings open and shut.

Step 1

Converting your hatch screen into a swinging one is a simple project that requires only an electric drill, a screwdriver, a pair of miniature hinges and eight 1/4-inch-long #4 panhead self-tapping sheet-metal screws. Stainless-steel hinges of this size can be hard to find, but brass ones will do the job just as well. Select hinges with a span (an opened width) that’s about the same as the combined width of the screen frame and its surrounding bezel. When the frame and the surrounding bezel are of differing widths, position the hinges  so their pivot point is above where the frame and bezel meet. Inspect the construction of the screen frame before drilling any holes. Most are comprised of a roughly “C”-shaped channel in which the screen is retained by a length of rubber cord stuffed into the opening.

Step 2

Next, you’ll need to determine the hinge locations. Remove the screen, and place it on a clean, supportive flat surface to do the modifications. If possible, plan to attach the hinges to the side of the frame that contains the seam where the channel ends are butted together. The hinges should be placed as widely apart as possible on the straight section of the frame. Apply a length of masking tape on the frame   to make it easier to mark and also to protect the finish. Mark the proposed location of the hinge holes on the masking tape. If the frame can only be installed one way, make sure you’re marking on the correct side. Then temporarily reinstall the screen   to make sure the proposed hinge locations won’t interfere with other features before removing it and preparing to drill the holes in its frame.

Step 3

Any hole in which a self-tapping screw will be inserted must be properly sized. An undersized hole can result in damage to the host material and make  the screw difficult to insert. An oversized hole will prevent the proper grip. The correct pilot hole size for #4 screws is 3/32-inch. It’ll be much easier to drill the holes in the proper location if you first make a small dimple in the metal using a center punch. A sharp nail or an awl can be used in the absence of a punch. The dimple will captivate the drill point and prevent it from wandering. Drill into the frame so the drill bit only goes through the top flange of the frame and isn’t allowed to get down into the screen to cause damage. The ideal situation is to place the hole so the screw will thread down into the rubber cord when it’s installed. Once the holes are drilled, remove the tape and install the hinges on the frame.

Step 4

Replace the screen, using the original latches to keep it in place while you mark the location of the screw holes that will mount the hinges to the surrounding bezel. If it’s a sloppy fit, position the screen away from the hinge end to avoid binding during operation. You may find it easier to drill the holes with the screen in place. If so, ensure proper alignment by drilling each hole and installing a screw in it before moving on to the next one. Again, try to drill each hole only as deeply as necessary to avoid either damaging unseen wiring or snagging upholstery. Use one or two of the original latches to keep the frame closed. If it’s a tight fit, a small knob or two can be mounted to a corner to assist in pulling it open. Once you use your hinged screen, you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it.