The temperature is in the single digits, and no reasonable person would be outside, let alone fishing from a snowmobile. But that's where we sit, watching our guide Jim drill a hole through the ice with a large apparatus that qualifies as some serious heavy machinery. The blades keep burrowing deeper and deeper into the ice, until finally there's a gurgle of water that comes pouring over the surface. We've got water, and where there's water, there's fish. Why choose this extreme location at this time of year? It's all in the name of fishing from the same lake - and in the same exact spot - but at an entirely different time from when the adventure began.

Six months earlier, we were at this same spot, but the conditions couldn't have been more different. The temperature was in the upper 90s, a record high for this area. For me, the trip is a quest to land my first fish since I was a 7-year-old fishing with my dad in Maine. On that trip, my biggest catch was a 2-pound catfish ... which we promptly threw back.

Twenty-five years later, I'm giving fishing another try, and this time I'm joined by Tim McKercher of Water-Top Unlimited, and Tim's 10-year-old son, Tyson. The two have fished together many times since Tyson's first outing at age 4, but there's a key element that makes this fishing trip unique: personal watercraft (PWCs).

That's right, PWCs. Those who think that PWCs are all about racing across the lake at wide-open throttle haven't seen a Sea-Doo GTX rigged up for fishing. McKercher worked with Quality T-Tops (www.qualityttops.com) in Tarpon Springs, Fla., to design the rig, a custom-fabricated rack system consisting of two rod holders and a cooler. The total cost for turning the GTX into a fishing machine? About $700.

The balmy summer morning begins with some innocent cruising around Lake Mille Lacs, a popular boating spot for Minnesota residents. Our jumping-off spot, as well as our lodging for the trip, is Izaty's Resort. After a few hours of cruising and getting acclimated to the lake - the second largest of the state's 10,000-plus - we're ready to fish. I mark the spot on our Lowrance iFinder Expedition c GPS, McKercher hands me a rod and some bait, and it's time to get down to business. Keeping a safe distance from Tim and Tyson - so as to not do them bodily harm from one of my errant casts - I maneuver myself into a comfortable position on the Sea-Doo and let      fly. Actually, "let fly" is a bit of an exaggeration, as I hold the cast too long and the bait sails a pitiful 5 feet. I look in Tim and Tyson's direction, but fortunately they're not paying attention.

I try again, this time with more success, and wait patiently, but the fish aren't biting yet. So I reel the line back in and cast again, and wait ... then repeat, and wait some more. After two hours of barely a nibble, we head back to land to regroup. When I express my disappointment to Tim that I haven't been able to experience real fishing yet, he responds, "That is fishing."

Point taken. But after a short break, we decide that hiring a guide who knows the water a little better is probably a wise decision. So we head over to Izaty's rental-equipment facility, Walleye World, a name that instantly conjures up images of Wally World, the fictional "holy grail" of the classic '80s comedy National Lampoon's Vacation. We're here to find a guide willing to take us fishing on PWCs, which means we'll need someone considerably less "by-the-book" than the nerdy John Candy character who manned Wally World in Vacation. Fortunately, the person working the store isn't a nebbish middle-aged guy but a college kid with a sense of humor. Unfortunately, he's the only one there and thus can't take us out, but he agrees to make some calls for us. The first person he phones is busy that day, but the second is available and rarin' to go ... until we mention that Sea-Doos are our fishing boat of choice. Despite Tim's description of the rig, our would-be guide remains skeptical: "Uhh, I don't think so," he says with a nervous chuckle. "That just sounds goofy." 

Our prospects look dim, and part of me starts to wonder if we'd have better luck following Chevy Chase's lead and pulling out a fake gun, Clark Griswold-style. But then Jim, a student at Winona State University, volunteers to help if we can wait until his shift ends later that afternoon. He's never fished from Sea-Doos, but he's willing to give it a try.

A few hours later, the four of us reach our first fishing spot, kill the engines, let cast and wait ... no dice. We go to another spot ... nothing. We reach the third spot, and panic starts to set in: The sun's going down, we depart the next day, and we don't want to go back empty-handed. But soon after casting, Tyson lets out a shout. He's got something! Moments later, the youngest member of our group is proudly holding up his catch, a perch.

Within the next hour Tim and Jim each catch a perch, but I'm still waiting for my first fish in 25 years. As the sun creeps yet lower, I start to think it might be another 25. But suddenly, there's a tug on the line. "I think I've got something," I yell, hoping it's not another false alarm. "Hook it ... bring it in slow and steady," Jim says, helping me along as Tim and Tyson cheer from their Sea-Doo. After a minute or so of battle, a fish suddenly pops over the surface, and as I watch in disbelief, the guide grabs hold of a sea creature that looks to me to be at least the size of a small shark.

In actuality, it's a common Minnesota walleye, and it's closer to 17 inches long than 17 feet, but it's good enough to bring back to the docks and put on ice. The next day, I pay a visit to my parents in Plymouth, Minn., and my mom converts the catch into some tasty walleye bites. We're dining on fresh fish I just caught the day before: What could be better than this?

How about churning your way through, say, 16 inches of ice as the weather is well below 16 degrees and you're wearing 16 layers of clothes? It's six months later, and Tim, Tyson and I are back on the same lake, same exact spot, but this time our mode of transportation is Ski-Doo snowmobiles. It's the middle of the week, so there's not a lot of action, but during the weekend we're told the lake can resemble a small town at night, with houses spread as far as the eye can see and makeshift roads designated throughout.

For those that live in warmer climates, it's a little disconcerting to whip along the lake without the thought of cracking ice - especially if you're cruising along in an SUV - but it's actually quite safe if the correct guidelines are followed. According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, 5 inches of ice is the minimum for snowmobiles and 12 inches for SUVs. However, there are other factors besides thickness that can affect safety, and that's why you should check with a local resort or bait shop about thin-ice areas before heading out, and make sure to use trails that have already been marked. At Izaty's, daily advisories are posted regarding the ice's safety, and on this day the ice is measuring 16 inches thick, plenty safe for the task at hand.

With the help of the Lowrance GPS, we cruise to one of the fishing spots marked six months ago. At first it's a bit disorienting - there's white as far as the eye can see, and the landscape looks completely different than in the summer. After a few seconds, though, it registers: We're here. Our guide for the day, Mike, has attached a sled packed with gear to the back of one of the snowmobiles, and from it he pulls a large device he calls an ice augur. It's used to drill a hole into the ice; a skimmer, which looks like a soup ladle, can then be used to scoop out chips or slush from your fishing hole. Within a few minutes there's a hole in the ice, the bait (minnows) is set, and the lure is in the water. Despite the fact that my parents have lived in the state for 15 years and I've spent a handful of winters here, it's not until this very moment that I officially feel like a rugged Minnesotan.

The feeling doesn't last long. An hour later, the wind is whipping and the fish aren't biting. The original plan was to go "no frills" and limit our ice fishing to the most basic form: outside, on the ice, from holes we've drilled ourselves. But suddenly the manmade fishing houses complete with heat are looking extremely appealing, and we begin discussing the possibility of renting one from Izaty's. As we pack up our gear, I can't escape the nagging feeling that we're going soft. Mike assures me that the vast majority of Minnesotans on Mille Lacs do their ice fishing from these houses, making me feel slightly better.

Our fishing house, which is con-structed of a material that resembles a garage door but is in fact quite sturdy, is the "basic" model Izaty's offers for rental. It's still an impressive sight, with the aforementioned heating system, a folding table with four chairs and a deck of cards, and eight holes pre-drilled into the ice. There are even four bunk beds for those hardier souls (not us) who are prepared to spend the entire evening outdoors.
After thawing out for approximately 45 minutes, we set about attaching the bait to the fishing hooks. For your convenience, there are reels attached to a spindle on the wall over each fishing hole. Best of all, each one has a bell attached
to alert you when the line starts to pull. This allows you to go about your business and then attend to the fish whenever the warning bell rings. Pretty cool.

During the first hour or two, the bells are ringing off the hook, sometimes more than one at a time. The excitement level is high as we dash around to see if we've caught a fish or if it's just a false alarm. We land about three or four small perch, with Tyson pulling the first one in like he's a seasoned pro. But after an initial fast start, things slow down to the point of a nibble or two per hour.

When an Izaty's staff member stops by to check in, I take the opportunity to hitch a ride with him to see some of the other fish houses. The first one we visit has a full cooking area complete with stove and grill, and the occupants are wolfing down some burgers. Since all I've had for the last four hours is beef jerky and Twizzlers, the burgers look tasty, but before I can grab one, it's off to the next fishing house. This one is similar to ours, but with NINE bunk beds, a larger living area and a power generator that hooks into a CD player and 13-inch TV. I'm impressed, but the Izaty's staffer boasts that his house on the lake has a 22-inch flat-screen TV. Hearing that admission, I feel a lot better about the decision to leave the hardcore outdoor ice fishing behind us.

After grabbing some dinner (a walleye sandwich, naturally) at a nearby restaurant, we head back to the fish house, this time via SUV. With temperatures in the single digits and the wind chill below zero, the 40-foot dash between the SUV and the house feels like an eternity.

Unfortunately, the fish still aren't biting, and with a house like this, heading to the next honey hole isn't an easy option. So we pass the time playing cards, listening to music and telling stories. It's far removed from the Grumpy Old Men stereotype of ice fishing - this is about as comfortable and relaxing as it gets.

But suddenly there's a ring on the bell, and I leap over to one of the holes and start pulling up the line. The fish is fighting hard, everyone's shouting, and the adrenaline is flowing. But just as the fish gets tantalizingly close to the surface, I make the rookie mistake of jerking too hard on the line. The fish is lost, but not before teasing us further by swimming directly across our eye line - yep, it's a big one.

On the way back to our lakeshore townhouse shortly thereafter, Tyson and Tim exchange excited stories about their first day of ice fishing together, and I find my mind curiously distracted from the sub-zero wind chill as I think about the fun I've had and the one that got away. The trip may be coming to a close, but I vow to make a return to Minnesota for a second crack at ice fishing ... and next time, I'm springing for the flat-screen TV.


Lowrance iFinder Expedition C

To make sure we fish the same spot in the heart of summer and the dead of winter, we need a dependable handheld GPS to mark the initial waypoint and then guide us back to it six months later. Enter the Lowrance iFinder Expedition c (www.lowance.com). The large, 2.83-inch diagonal display delivers nice color and easy read- ability. The menu buttons are a good size and make navigating through the well-designed display pages a breeze. The electric compass with map overlay is another nice touch, and the satellite locks in quickly. Other notable features include an altimeter, voice note recording, and even the ability to play MP3 audio files. On our trip, we have the added benefit of a LakeMaster ProMaps card for Minnesota ($99.95). After popping it in under the batteries, even more detailed info appears on the screen. Aside from some confusing instructions regarding a setting change, the Lowrance gets high marks overall for its abundance of features, crisp visuals and solid ergonomics. And while finding the way back to our original fishing spot would have been a daunting task in winter with snow and barren landscape as far as the eye can see, having the Lowrance iFinder Expedition c ($309) at our service makes the task a snap. - R. McNally

  

Sea-Doos and Ski-Doos
During the course of a full summer day on the water, there are ample opportunities to ride each of the Sea-Doo (www.sea-doo.com) PWCs we have on hand. The GTX ($10,099) is a great luxury watercraft with a comfortable feel that's perfect for a day of cruising - and in this case, fishing - in style. For 2007, a plush new touring seat has been added, and the wider and higher handlebars up the comfort factor. The 155-hp Rotax 4-TEC engine delivers smooth acceleration and good performance.

If you're looking for power, the 215-hp RXT ($11,599) is a potent three-seater that delivers rocket-like acceleration. You sacrifice a little control for the power, but experienced riders looking for the ultimate adrenaline rush will get a rise out of this ultra-high-performance PWC.

For those seeking thrills on a budget, the GTI SE is a standout entry-level craft with features that elevate it beyond the typical barebones starter PWC (for more information on the GTI SE, flip to page 122). The ride is also more aggressive and stable than a traditional entry-level craft - even when the weather gets rougher later in the day - and the price is a welcoming $8,499.

Our Ski-Doo (www.ski-doo.com) fleet during the winter leg of the trip consists of the Freestyle, MXZ and Mach Z. While the icy conditions and surprisingly small amount of snow (for Minnesota) on the lake aren't ideal for a first-timer, it's still easy to see what a blast these are to ride.

For more casual and beginner riders, the versatile Freestyle is a good choice. It's perfect for playing around in your backyard, but depending on the package you get, you can also use it for riding on trails and in stunt parks. Aimed at a young demographic, the Freestyle boasts graffiti-style graphics and is priced starting at $4,149 (prices run up to $5,899, depending on the package).

The MXZ ($5,799-$10,399), the best-selling snowmobile in the industry, is an inviting ride. This sled, as enthusiasts call them, is known for its excellent handling and ability to navigate bumps. Both attributes come in handy during a day of riding, even though my top speed never leaps beyond the 40s. For a high-performance craft like this, which is regularly used at speeds a few dozen mph beyond this when trail riding, that's small potatoes.

The Mach Z ($11,549-$12,299) features driver-centered positioning, a comparatively light weight (thanks in part to its 170-hp Rotax 2-TEC 1000 SDI engine), and Pilot 5.7 dual-runner skis. Add 'em up, and you've got a high-performance sled known for its agile handling. After just a few hours of riding on these sleds, I'm hooked. If you're a watercraft fan and haven't tried snowmobiling yet, it's time to give it a try. - R.M.

WHEN YOU GO
Lake Mille Lacs, Minnesota's second-largest lake, is located about 90 miles north of the Minneapolis/ St. Paul airport. While boating of all types is enjoyed here, fishing is the biggest draw, with walleye, Northern pike, muskie, jumbo perch, smallmouth bass and tullibee all in full force. At 20 miles by 14 miles, there's lots of exploring to do on the lake. For more information, visit www.millelacs.com. When you're ice fishing, there are a number of safety guidelines to follow. As the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources notes, "There's no such thing as 100-percent-safe ice." For a list of excellent ice safety tips - did you know that you should always keep the windows down when traveling across the ice in a vehicle? - visit www.dnr.state.mn.us/safety/ice/index.html. Izaty's Resort is a great place to call home during a visit to Lake Mille Lacs. You can stay at the Links Lodge, a 28-room hotel-style complex, or choose from lakeshore town homes, featuring full kitchens, fireplace, cable TV and VCR. We opt for the Links Lodge in the summer and a two-bedroom lakeshore townhouse in the winter, and find both to be stellar. But the townhouse, with its deck just a few feet from the lake, is particularly appealing. The resort boasts a full-service boat slip marina with protected harbor, gas, restroom and shower facilities, and boat ramp. Rental equipment and fishing gear are available at Walleye World. Fish houses can be rented during the winter, with prices starting at $100 per weeknight and $275 per weekend. Izaty's also has a dining room and two golf courses. For more info, visit www.izatys.com. - R.M.