Q: I recently bought a 28-foot Marinette. My cabin top and flybridge need to be repainted due to checkering. I bought some samples of white paint, but none seem to match. Can you give me any information on finding the right shade and how I can paint without leaving roller marks?
- Tomas Abbey, Michigan

A: Tom's boat is built of aluminum. The process of repainting is more akin to auto bodywork than marine repair. First, you'll need to address the "checkering." The original paints used by Marinette seldom peel. These symptoms suggest that someone may have repainted the cabin top without properly preparing the surface. You'll have to remove any loose paint. Otherwise, the new coat you put on will flake off with the deteriorating coat.

Next, the tightly adhered "checkered" surface has to be faired using a surfacing putty suitable for application over existing paint. Not all surfacing putties are designed for use on restoration projects. Automotive paint stores stock what you need in both two-part putties and one-part glazes.

The whole cabin top will have to be sanded smooth with a dual-action sander starting with sandpaper no coarser than 220-grit. Use caution not to "burn through" the original protective undercoat in place.

Now you need to choose a paint system. Unfortunately, Marinette is no longer in business, so some questions cannot be answered. The original topcoat was probably a two-part linear polyurethane, but the brand and color are a mystery. It isn't necessary to solve this enigma. None of the commercial coatings that might have been used are intended for amateur application. They must be sprayed under controlled conditions and the person applying the paint needs an air-supplied respirator.

A do-it-yourself paint job requires a more "user-friendly" product. Interlux and Pettit both make topside enamels and polyurethanes suitable for the job. Pick one company's product line and stick with it. Use only the thinners, zinc chromate, and white primer compatible with your choice of final topcoat. Read and follow the whole set of instructions for the whole system of paints.

For the performance of a two-part polyurethane, consider Perfection™ from Interlux. If you choose this topcoat, the white primer is Interlux 404/414 Epoxy Primekote™, a two-part epoxy that sands freely and resists burning through.

Two-part polyurethane shouldn't be applied over an existing one-part enamel paint. If you're not sure, assume the old paint is a one-part enamel and use a similar product. Pettit's Easypoxy™ is a time-tested topside enamel. Use Pettit 6149 White Undercoater as a primer.

Zinc chromate protects the metal and helps the topcoat adhere better. White primer is designed to fill fine cracks and other imperfections. This type of paint has a lot of "solids" which build a thick coating that allows sanding to create that baby-smooth appearance. The more you sand with finer-grit sandpapers, the smoother the final topcoat will be.

White primer also prevents "shadowing" of the under color through the final topcoat. Without it, the color of the zinc chromate, or even the bare metal, will show as a permanent dark or off-color splotch in the final paint.

Exact matching an existing white is nearly impossible. Instead, refinish the whole cabin top or the entire flybridge so that any color change comes at a logical breaking point.

It's possible to get a spray paint look despite using do-it-yourself methods. Application of the final topcoat should be done by rolling and tipping. Paint is applieid using a striped mohair roller (Seafit 9R11PH) suitable for use with urethanes. The roller must have a phenolic core. Ordinary paper cores can dissolve in the solvents used in urethane paints.

A roller applies a uniform coating, but leaves behind a stippled surface. "Tipping" using a brush removes this stipple and levels the surface. My preference is to tip with a 3- or 4-inch-wide foam brush. Other people prefer high-quality badger bristle.

Tipping requires two people, one handling the roller and the second weilding the tipping brush. Lightly move the brush across the surface to smooth out the wet paint film. From time to time, wipe the brush on the edge of the can to remove excess paint.

Work under a covering to get away from direct sunlight and airborne dust. If you can't get the boat into a building, at least rig a tarp. Be sure to work early in the day so the paint will be hard enough to resist damage from the evening dew.

Q: My boat has hydraulic steering. This spring, it started to take more turns of the wheel to steer the boat. There also seems to be a stutter in the wheel as I turn it. What's wrong?  I've checked the hoses and lubricated the moving parts on the outboard.  - Steve Santori, Hoffman Estates, IL

A: l hydraulic systems lose a bit of their fluid in normal operation. When the level gets too low, expect the symptoms you describe. Steering fluid for boats is a lightweight oil specifically manufactured for the purpose. It can be obtained in quart bottles from any marine store (SeaStar Steering Oil, Teleflex #HA5430). Purchase a quart, plus one of the filler kits. This kit is a hose that screws into the filler hole of the helm and attaches to the bottle.

Attach the filler kit according to the instructions, then turn the wheel full left and full right several times. You should see the level in the quart jug go down and air bubbles go up as you simultaneously fill the oil reservoir in the helm and purge air from the system. Remove the bottle and replace the cap on the filler hole.

Oil disappears out of all systems during regular operation, so refilling is ongoing maintenance. Most of the troubles with hydraulic systems are found at the helm. There are two symptoms of developing problems: First is excessive loss of fluid. The other is an oil slick on the front of the steering console below the helm.

A worn seal on the steering wheel shaft of the helm is usually the culprit. A worn seal allows oil to leak out while air is getting into the system.   

Previously, new oil seals were available, but they're no longer sold. It's still possible to remove the oil seal cover to pull out the old seal. On an emergency basis, it can be replaced with a high-quality O-ring.

The O-ring does not "fix" the problem. For a while, it just keeps oil from dripping on your pants. This is just a "get home" trick. The only real "fix" for a leaking helm is replacement with a new part.

Q: We love our new boat, but trailing to the ramp is a nightmare, especially on the freeway. The trailer swings back and forth, and I have to slow down or stop. What's the problem?  - Jack Forrest, Mt. Sterling, OH

A: Those violent oscillations are called "fishtailing." The usual cause is too much weight behind the trailer axle. For safe operation, at least 60 percent of the load weight on a trailer should be in front of the axle.

Repositioning the weight on a boat trailer involves moving the place where the boat sits on the trailer. You do this by moving the winch stand forward or backward. Moving the stand forward allows the boat to move forward, so the weight also goes forward. Moving the stand back does the same. It may take a couple of "cut and try" experiments to find the right position for your boat on its trailer.

Don't overdo moving the boat forward. Too much tongue weight will push the back end of your car down, raising the front wheels off the ground. That spells real steering problems.

Adjusting the position of the boat should solve the fishtailing problem. If not, you'll have to purchase and install a load leveling anti-sway system. This is about an $800 fix, which is why it should only be done after you have experi-mented with winch stand position. 

Send your BoatCraft Q&A questions to Dave Brown c/o Boating World, 2100 Powers Ferry Rd., Atlanta, GA 30339. You can also e-mail your questions to editor@boatingworldonline.com. Due to the volume of inquiries, Dave Brown will be unable to answer every question.