Good Night
Spending a night on board? Follow these tips on proper anchorage and rest easy knowing that your boat is safe and secure.
By David Brown
March 29, 2006
Q: I recently purchased my first boat, a 20-footer. My first weekend out on the boat was at
Lake Powell. I had the boat pulled up on a sandy section of beach, which was surrounded by rocks
and coarse sand. I was unable to sleep because I was worried about my boat scraping the rocks on
shore. I was wondering if you have any tips on how to secure a small boat for an overnight stay?
- Boatdude, via e-mail
A: You didn't say, but apparently you pulled onto the beach in order to spend the night sleeping aboard. Boat camping can be rewarding, but not if you don't get a good night's sleep. You can expect to scratch the bottom of your boat if you pull up on the beach. Sand is nothing more than very tiny rocks with sharp edges. The keel takes most of this punishment because of its V-shape. A great deal of damage can be avoided by applying a strip of KeelShield™ to the bottom of your boat. This is a urethane polymer strip that comes with a special adhesive and primer. It comes in 14 colors, from white to emerald green. If you don't mind a little work, consider applying an epoxy barrier coat to the entire bottom. Epoxy has greater abrasion resistance than regular gel coat, so it stands up better to the wear and tear of running onto a beach. This is no small undertaking - first you have to de-wax the bottom before applying the barrier coat materials. If you go this route, hold off on installing the KeelShield until the barrier coat work is complete. It's a lot cheaper and less work to simply buy a suitable anchor and enough rope to spend the night "on the hook." All you have to do is find yourself a quiet cove and drop the anchor to enjoy a comfortable night's sleep. For overnight anchoring, you'll want to use at least one size larger anchor than the one normally suggested for your boat. Your 20-footer would typically require an 8- to 10-pound steel fluke anchor. To sleep overnight, go up to at least a 15-pounder. Attach a length of 3/16-inch galvanized proof coil chain at least equal to the length of your boat. Finally, connect a 3-stranded, twisted nylon line. You can get by with 3/8-inch, but for security, go with 7/16-inch rope. The rule-of-thumb is that you need an anchor line five to seven times the water depth. For overnight, increase that to five to 10 times the depth. Good anchoring takes practice. Approach the spot where you want to drop the hook and come to a stop. Lower the anchor quickly to the bottom ("smartly" in sailor talk). After the anchor is on bottom, back away slowly, paying out the rope without tangling it in your propeller.
Secure the anchor line to a
deck cleat and back down with half power. The anchor shouldn't drag, but should dig into the bottom
or "set." No anchor is 100 percent sure. A change in wind or waves can cause the boat to swing on
its line and jerk the anchor loose. This is the reason for choosing a protected cove for overnight
anchoring. You can also prevent the boat from swinging too much by tying a second line ashore to a
tree or other fixed object. Before you do, however, be sure you're going ashore on public property.
Learning to safely anchor overnight is an acquired skill. Try setting up your overnight system
several times during the daylight. Remember, everything is twice as hard in the dark. Under the
federal Rules of the Road [Rule 30(e)], a boat your size isn't required to display an all-round
white anchor light if it's anchored away from where other boats normally operate. State laws may be
more restrictive, so check local regulations. Still, it's a lot safer to display a white light.
Your regular stern light draws too much current and will drain your battery by morning. Instead,
try a Davis utility Mega-Lite (#3300) that draws only 0.110 amps and plugs into your lighter
outlet.
Q: I'm looking to buy a used center console boat to take the kids fishing, tubing, etc. I recently saw a 10-year-old boat available, and the price is about what I want to spend, under $10,000. What questions should I be asking the seller?
- New Boater, via e-mail
A: Let the boat tell you what to ask. Take a slow walk around, looking for any unusual wear, obvious signs of repair, or odd things that catch your attention. For instance, an unusually shiny spot on the gel coat is a typical sign of a repair to that area. You'll want to know what happened to the boat to require that repair, who made the repair, and when.
You're considering a 10-year-old boat. The engine may be nearing its service life. So, you'll want to know how many hours it's been run and what kind of running the boat has done. Pull the cover and look at the engine block. Discoloration may indicate overheating or repairs. Again, let the engine guide your questions. Even though this boat is less than $10,000, it still represents a large expenditure. Your experience level is that of a first-time buyer. To protect your wallet, it's a good idea to hire a qualified marine surveyor to go over the boat. The owner shouldn't object. If they do, you probably want to keep looking for another boat. Also consider taking the engine to a dealer for a thorough inspection. Like the surveyor, this will cost a few bucks. Better to spend a couple hundred bucks than waste thousands on the wrong boat.
Q: I'm buying a boat with a 1989 outboard. I really want to take care of the motor and keep it going as long as I need it. Do you know of a good book on outboard motors and how to maintain them?
- Basswest1, via e-mail
A: The best book on any outboard motor is the engine service manual published by the manufacturer. You'll have to order one through a local dealer. These books aren't cheap, but for the do-it-yourself mechanic, the knowledge they contain can be priceless.
Several publishers, such as Seloc, offer so-called "aftermarket" engine manuals. These books usually cover more than just one engine. Often, they give general information about a manufacturer's full line of engines. Some specifics may be lost in the process, but the maintenance and repair details you need will be there. Finally, Ed Sherman's book, "Outboard Engines" (International Marine/McGraw Hill, ISBN 0070578567), is an excellent guide to owning and operating outboard motors. It can be ordered through any book dealer and lists for $21.95.
Q: I recently purchased a 23-foot outdrive-powered boat. Whenever I start it up, a loud alarm sounds until the motor turns over. Once it's running, the sound goes off. The boat runs great. What's going on here?
- Rob, via e-mail
A: You're hearing the warning horn connected to your engine instruments. It sounds off when you turn the key to let you know that it's operational. Should the engine overheat or lose oil pressure, that horn alerts you to the problem. Instead of worrying about the noise when you start the engine, worry if it doesn't screech. Silence tells you that your first line of defense against a blown engine is broken.
Q: This is my second year boating. I'm wondering if there are rules for entering or leaving a raft-up party. I've seen several parties like this, but I've never been quite sure of what etiquette there might be.
- Brad Earley, Utah
A: The first rule is to never "crash" a party where you're not invited. But, assuming you're on friendly terms with the other people, just swing by and tell them you want to join the fun. Explain that you're new and you'll probably see a flurry of helping hands. Prepare your boat before you get there. Rig at least two fenders and bow and stern lines on either side of your boat. That way, you can tie up on the port or starboard side as needed. Get specific permission from the owner of the boat that you'll tie alongside. Work out with that skipper the placement of fenders and tie-up lines. Leaving a raft-up can create a lot of problems for all of the other boats if you're inside the raft. Alert everyone well in advance that you're going to leave, so that plans can be made for rebuilding the raft. Untie only when enough hands are available to assist.
- Boatdude, via e-mail
A: You didn't say, but apparently you pulled onto the beach in order to spend the night sleeping aboard. Boat camping can be rewarding, but not if you don't get a good night's sleep. You can expect to scratch the bottom of your boat if you pull up on the beach. Sand is nothing more than very tiny rocks with sharp edges. The keel takes most of this punishment because of its V-shape. A great deal of damage can be avoided by applying a strip of KeelShield™ to the bottom of your boat. This is a urethane polymer strip that comes with a special adhesive and primer. It comes in 14 colors, from white to emerald green. If you don't mind a little work, consider applying an epoxy barrier coat to the entire bottom. Epoxy has greater abrasion resistance than regular gel coat, so it stands up better to the wear and tear of running onto a beach. This is no small undertaking - first you have to de-wax the bottom before applying the barrier coat materials. If you go this route, hold off on installing the KeelShield until the barrier coat work is complete. It's a lot cheaper and less work to simply buy a suitable anchor and enough rope to spend the night "on the hook." All you have to do is find yourself a quiet cove and drop the anchor to enjoy a comfortable night's sleep. For overnight anchoring, you'll want to use at least one size larger anchor than the one normally suggested for your boat. Your 20-footer would typically require an 8- to 10-pound steel fluke anchor. To sleep overnight, go up to at least a 15-pounder. Attach a length of 3/16-inch galvanized proof coil chain at least equal to the length of your boat. Finally, connect a 3-stranded, twisted nylon line. You can get by with 3/8-inch, but for security, go with 7/16-inch rope. The rule-of-thumb is that you need an anchor line five to seven times the water depth. For overnight, increase that to five to 10 times the depth. Good anchoring takes practice. Approach the spot where you want to drop the hook and come to a stop. Lower the anchor quickly to the bottom ("smartly" in sailor talk). After the anchor is on bottom, back away slowly, paying out the rope without tangling it in your propeller.
Secure the anchor line to a
deck cleat and back down with half power. The anchor shouldn't drag, but should dig into the bottom
or "set." No anchor is 100 percent sure. A change in wind or waves can cause the boat to swing on
its line and jerk the anchor loose. This is the reason for choosing a protected cove for overnight
anchoring. You can also prevent the boat from swinging too much by tying a second line ashore to a
tree or other fixed object. Before you do, however, be sure you're going ashore on public property.
Learning to safely anchor overnight is an acquired skill. Try setting up your overnight system
several times during the daylight. Remember, everything is twice as hard in the dark. Under the
federal Rules of the Road [Rule 30(e)], a boat your size isn't required to display an all-round
white anchor light if it's anchored away from where other boats normally operate. State laws may be
more restrictive, so check local regulations. Still, it's a lot safer to display a white light.
Your regular stern light draws too much current and will drain your battery by morning. Instead,
try a Davis utility Mega-Lite (#3300) that draws only 0.110 amps and plugs into your lighter
outlet.
Q: I'm looking to buy a used center console boat to take the kids fishing, tubing, etc. I recently saw a 10-year-old boat available, and the price is about what I want to spend, under $10,000. What questions should I be asking the seller?
- New Boater, via e-mail
A: Let the boat tell you what to ask. Take a slow walk around, looking for any unusual wear, obvious signs of repair, or odd things that catch your attention. For instance, an unusually shiny spot on the gel coat is a typical sign of a repair to that area. You'll want to know what happened to the boat to require that repair, who made the repair, and when.
You're considering a 10-year-old boat. The engine may be nearing its service life. So, you'll want to know how many hours it's been run and what kind of running the boat has done. Pull the cover and look at the engine block. Discoloration may indicate overheating or repairs. Again, let the engine guide your questions. Even though this boat is less than $10,000, it still represents a large expenditure. Your experience level is that of a first-time buyer. To protect your wallet, it's a good idea to hire a qualified marine surveyor to go over the boat. The owner shouldn't object. If they do, you probably want to keep looking for another boat. Also consider taking the engine to a dealer for a thorough inspection. Like the surveyor, this will cost a few bucks. Better to spend a couple hundred bucks than waste thousands on the wrong boat.
Q: I'm buying a boat with a 1989 outboard. I really want to take care of the motor and keep it going as long as I need it. Do you know of a good book on outboard motors and how to maintain them?
- Basswest1, via e-mail
A: The best book on any outboard motor is the engine service manual published by the manufacturer. You'll have to order one through a local dealer. These books aren't cheap, but for the do-it-yourself mechanic, the knowledge they contain can be priceless.
Several publishers, such as Seloc, offer so-called "aftermarket" engine manuals. These books usually cover more than just one engine. Often, they give general information about a manufacturer's full line of engines. Some specifics may be lost in the process, but the maintenance and repair details you need will be there. Finally, Ed Sherman's book, "Outboard Engines" (International Marine/McGraw Hill, ISBN 0070578567), is an excellent guide to owning and operating outboard motors. It can be ordered through any book dealer and lists for $21.95.
Q: I recently purchased a 23-foot outdrive-powered boat. Whenever I start it up, a loud alarm sounds until the motor turns over. Once it's running, the sound goes off. The boat runs great. What's going on here?
- Rob, via e-mail
A: You're hearing the warning horn connected to your engine instruments. It sounds off when you turn the key to let you know that it's operational. Should the engine overheat or lose oil pressure, that horn alerts you to the problem. Instead of worrying about the noise when you start the engine, worry if it doesn't screech. Silence tells you that your first line of defense against a blown engine is broken.
Q: This is my second year boating. I'm wondering if there are rules for entering or leaving a raft-up party. I've seen several parties like this, but I've never been quite sure of what etiquette there might be.
- Brad Earley, Utah
A: The first rule is to never "crash" a party where you're not invited. But, assuming you're on friendly terms with the other people, just swing by and tell them you want to join the fun. Explain that you're new and you'll probably see a flurry of helping hands. Prepare your boat before you get there. Rig at least two fenders and bow and stern lines on either side of your boat. That way, you can tie up on the port or starboard side as needed. Get specific permission from the owner of the boat that you'll tie alongside. Work out with that skipper the placement of fenders and tie-up lines. Leaving a raft-up can create a lot of problems for all of the other boats if you're inside the raft. Alert everyone well in advance that you're going to leave, so that plans can be made for rebuilding the raft. Untie only when enough hands are available to assist.
related articles:
Take A Seat: Seat replacement is an easy, inexpensive way to spruce up your boat for the new season.Non-Fish Fishing: The next time you take the kids out fishing, leave the rods at home.
Installing Trailer Guideposts: Launching your boat and then pulling it out of the water at the end of the day can be two of the more challenging aspects of the boating experience.
Good Night: Spending a night on board? Follow these tips on proper anchorage and rest easy knowing that your boat is safe and secure.
Catch And Release: By practicing the proper catch-and-release techniques, you can teach your kids firsthand about conserving resources.
